
The lure of Alaska and British Columbia never fails as a draw for
fly-fishers from around the world. It's a powerful draw. Many people
return every year and fight crowds for the chance of hooking a steelhead
or Pacific Salmon. The most incredible story I ever hear was of 260 who
snuggled up practically elbow to elbow to share a small section of a
river. The story even made the newspapers.
I've fished Alaska and British Columbia -in quieter places and with great
success - but the spell never took hold for me. It's the Yukon that has
captured my heart. The fishing pressure is light, which part of its
frontier allure. But it still offers big challenges. To my Dutch eyes, it
also appears that fly-fishing is a relatively new sport for this
territory. People here seem to prefer lake fishing to river fishing and
many of the flyfishers I met came from abroad.
One of the greatest challenges I first encountered in the Yukon was that
of catching the plentiful, yet exlusive species of whitefish. Over the
years, my passion for grayling in Europe put me in frequent contact with
whitefish. Eventually, I developed an interest in them too, and, later,
discovered several tips and techniques for landing a healthy of percentage
of these spirited fighters.
Some of the whitefish in Yukon behave differently than the whitefish in
Europe, but the general attitude toward them remains the same: they can be
extremely difficult to catch. Part of the challenge for the angler lies in
the small and soft mouths of the fish. But they seem to be easier to take
in some lakes and rivers. In others, such as the Yukon's Dogpack and Tin
Cup.
I was told the
task was nearly impossible in these areas if you fished with flies. I was
told my efforts would be useless. But I saw this only as a challenge. It
took several days and two trips to Yukon before I developed a successful
technique. After discovering fly patterns that worked, I found I was able
to tempt the fish. I had less success landing them, until I reached back
to an old trick of using small, curved hooks. It worked like a charm and
my wife I enjoyed several days of excellent whitefishing.
About this time, I became captivated by a particular species of whitefish
known as the inconnu. I first heard of these sleek and silvery cousins of
lake and round whitefish while visiting Inconnu Lodge on McEvoy Lake in
the southeastern region of the Yukon. It was the sight two mounted
trophies on display in the lodge that wet my appetite. Inconnu - the name
comes from the French word for 'unknown' - frequently weigh at
two-and-half kilograms to four-and-a-half kilograms, but they can grow
much bigger. The record at Inconnu Lodge stands just shy of 15 kilograms.
Eaters of minnows, ciscos and salmon fry, anglers typically go after
inconnu with slive spoons and other lures that imitate small fish. I was
determined to fish for them with flies. I got my chance on my fourth day
at Inconnu Lodge. We had left the lake for some moving water and, within
an hour, I had hooked on fish but lost it when it reached the surface of
the lake. I don't normally blame my equipment for fish losses but I made
an exception. I was using a borrowed fly that looked old to me. And I was
sure the wire the hook was too thick to play the fish properly. My luck
didn't change for the rest of the day.
When I went back to Europe, I was determined to return to the Yukon and
catch inconnu. I devoted the winter to developing fly patterns I was
convinced would work. My wife, Ina, and I came back the next summer for a
visit to Tin Cup Lodge, which nestles at foot of the Yukon's St. Elias
mountain range near Kluane National Park Tin Cup encourages experimental
fishing and Larry Naggy - a geologist and partner in the business - was up
for my challenge. No one had ever caught inconnu on flies at Tin Cup
before. Initially, Larry led us to several excellent spots and we enjoyed
terrific fishing - although not for inconnu. We were saving that for
later.
One of the wonderful things at Tin Cup was that everybody respected my
experiments and because of my successes I was able to catch several
species that seemed impossible to hook and land before. I found some
remarkable hotspots for catching whitefish on little nymphs and by
teaching my techniques to others it increased the fly fishing
possibilities at Tin Cup enormously.
When our inconnu day finally arrived, I was feeling good. I had determined
that we would need to tempt for the fish up from the bottom and searching
for their feeding dept. Other guests at the lodge had caught four inconnu
that week and I was confident the fly patterns I had developed over the
winter would do their job. Because heavy spoons caught all fish I knew we
have to present our flies deep. Our special Quick Decent sinktip fly lines
makes it even possible to search for the fish at depths around 4 metres
and even more.
I decided to use a 325 grain sinktip line, for Larry I set up a brand new
rod with a 425 grain sinktip and Ina uses a light rod with only 225 grain
sinktip. All our sinking tips were 24 ft so a perfect length to search for
the inconnu at several depths. I discussed the fishing technique with
Larry and Ina again. To reach some depth you have to shoot your line quite
some distance and let it sink first. You wait 60-80 seconds first and then
you start to pull in your line with different retrieving speeds. When
everybody knew exactly what to do and when all our equipment was checked
again we flew out to our secret inconnu place.
We took the jetboat and Larry gives us a wonderful sightseeing tour to
start with. I don’t like it to fish with more then two people from boat so
we also prepared a belly boat. They drop me on shore and I quickly paddle
to some good-looking spots. Ina and Larry fished from the boat.

After two exciting hours the great moment finally came, I was drifting
around in my belly-boat. It sudden shout broke the air. "Inconnu.
Inconnu!" It was Larry, who was with my wife several hundred metres away.
I looked up and over in Ina's direction. All I could see was splashing
water around the boat she was fishing from. I knew she had done well and
was into something big. I also felt a swell of pride. Ina became the first
person at Tin Cup Lodge to catch an inconnu on a fly.
I was too far away to paddle over and get a picture as she worked the
fish, but I was there in time for the landing. The inconnu is a beautiful
tail walker and they seems to do it until they fully landed. It was a
beautiful specimen at 93 centimetres (37inch). Within an hour, Ina was
into a second fish. I would have been amazed except I hooked into one at
the moment, as well. We were both working and it was impossible again to
get a picture. But both were beautiful creatures; Ina's measuring in at 90
centimetres, mine at 89.
Although Ina and I solved the mysteries of catching inconnu on flies,
there is still much to learn about this fish. They seem to like big muddy
and silty rivers, and there associated lakes. Yukon has plenty of those,
as do other regions of Canada's north. Some people have told me they live
in the big lakes and spawn in the rivers that feed them. Other stories say
they come from regions as far north as the Arctic Ocean and follow the
drainages.
Whatever the
case, this much is certain: they are amazing fighters, especially when you
go for them with lighter tackle, like fly fishing gear. Once hooked, they
surface with unbelievable speed. Perhaps they find it easier to shake the
hooks. And when they come up, they are leaping. The perfect close to the
day came sometime later when Larry hooked into in an inconnu of his own,
using one of my flies. I had never seen nor heard of inconnu more than one
metre long. When Larry got his to the boat, it came in at 124 centimetres.
But the image I remember most is that of the fish tail-walking across the
water as Larry tried to land it. Then a strong wind cam up and the fish
the inconnu were feeding for probably moved to deeper water. We didn’t see
any at all anymore. It was a spectacle none of us will soon forget.